Bruxelles

I feel compelled to mention Brussels as it was something of a watershed moment in the trip. It was the moment that crystallized our ambitions on this adventure: the search for fine scenery and wilderness. As an architect and someone who has become accustomed to city-hopping, this notion has been an adjustment. So many of the iconic buildings and cultural venues that I've wanted to see are in large cities but motorcycle travels are stressful enough without throwing foreign metropoli into the mix. The aggressive drivers of Brussels, in their dented and scratched cars accustomed to nudging and jostling through the city streets, made for nervous times. I was however fortunate enough to meet a couple of wonderful women in Brussels whose kindness brightened my day and got me back on the road in fine form. Their generosity of spirit will not soon be forgotten.

[The Stelvio Pass: breathtaking scenery that fits the bill]

Our delightful Airbnb flat in the city also offered laundry facilities and the chance to dry out all of our gear. We did take advantage of the city's retail offerings and replaced our synthetic-fill sleeping bag with down-filled mummy bags having tight-fitting draft collars. The Big Agnes double-wide sleeping bag system is just too draughty for the cooler nights we are now facing.

My suggestion for Brussels: Find a Galler chocolatier and try one of everything, then move on.